Glimpses #8: China, Germany, Switzerland

May 8, 2017

Originally intended as a small book, “Glimpses: In which a Casual Traveler Ruminates on Passing Scenes—1989-2011″, I should like to share it with my readers in a more informal manner as a series of Blogs. The introduction and first two “Glimpses” are in the Blog uploaded on October 2, 2016

Bird Market, Beijing

China: Beijing: Walking the avenue outside our hotel (Tianlun Dynasty Hotel) I take in street scenes: an old man with a chair, a cloth, and a pair of scissors — haircuts given al fresco! A short distance away, a man selling birds from a birdcage to passersby who promptly release them into the air. As I watch, I see the freed birds return to the seller, to be sold again and again as the day goes on.

Germany: Esslingen/Karlsruhe: Many years ago (around 1955) I was stationed at Gersewski Barracks while in the army, in a small town named Esslingen just outside Karlsruhe. At least once a month or more, I would take a bus into Karlsruhe (a good-sized city) and go to a what became my favorite restaurant for wienerschnitzel (a meal my Mom used to make and one of my favorites). After some time, the waiter got to ‘know’ me and when I walked in, he’d ask, “Der Ushual?” and I’d smile and nod. He’d have the stein of Dinkelacher almost immediately on my table (also ‘ushually’ the same) and go back to the kitchen to order my meal. I was stationed there for a year, and after some months I’d had wienerschnitzel ‘up to here’ and once asked if they served shrimp. The waiter looked at me puzzled and asked, “Vas is das?” I began to describe a shrimp for him and as I did so, his face slowly turned from expectant to disgusted. When I got to the legs and feelers, he blurted, “You eat zis?” I looked up a bit sheepishly and murmured, “Wienerschnitzel, bitte.”

 

Sephardic Synagogue Beth Yaacov, Geneva Switzerland

Sephardic Synagogue Beth Yaacov, Geneva, Switzerland built in the 1700’s

Switzerland: Geneva: While walking around town we noted a synagogue that had intriguing architecture — it almost looked like a mosque. Circular in construction, we walked around the building but could find no access. As we walked, we came upon a couple who seemed to be heading there as well. They told us that it was closed but that it would be open the following day for a funeral for Still intrigued as to what it may look like on the inside, we decided to come back during the funeral. We were in for a complete surprise: the funeral was for the Dr. Alexandre Safran, head rabbi of Geneva and the place was packed with Swiss notables, both religious and political.

Funeral service for Dr. Alexandre Safran at the Sephardic Synagogue Beth Yaacov

Funeral service for Dr. Alexandre Safran at the Sephardic Synagogue Beth Yaacov

We both had to sit up in the balcony, which was fortunate because it gave us the opportunity to take a few unobtrusive photographs of the proceedings. Several speeches were given in tribute to the rabbi and we felt rather privileged to have stumbled in on this special occasion. Cornelia wrote about the event in ART TIMES (http://bit.ly/2qKxCr3when we returned home and, shortly thereafter, she received an email from the rabbi’s son, both thanking her for the article and requesting that she send copies of the photos she had taken. What a strange world in its mysterious interconnections!


Glimpses 5: Czech Republic, Germany, Switzerland, China

March 20, 2017

Originally intended as a small book, “Glimpses: In which a Casual Traveler Ruminates on Passing Scenes—1989-2011″, I should like to share it with my readers in a more informal manner as a series of Blogs.. 

Coaster from U Fleku, Prague

Coaster from U Fleku, Prague

Czech Republic: Prague: Jacky, Jörg, take us to U Flecku, an incredibly old tavern some distance from the town’s center. Scarred wooden tables. Loud men-talk. Hearty laughter. Many mugs of Urquell disappeared from our table. How many dreams had been started, thwarted, and realized in this ancient beer hall? The following day, Cornelia and I visited the newly-opened Mucha Museum, while Jacky and Jörg explored elsewhere. (Note: We met Jacky Sparkowsky and Jörg Iwan in Berlin through the Jarczyks and have visited and traveled with them in Europe extensively).

Germany: Bergisch Gladbach: Walking back home with Heinz after a visit to his favorite art shop, we stop along the way at one of his favorite haunts — a small Italian restaurant where they warmly welcome him. Our order? An espresso and shot of grappa — enough to spur on at least an hour of small talk!

Germany: Leipzig: We find a tavern on the small square and see what we can get for lunch. As we sit at our table, I discover that this was the very place where Goethe wrote part of his “Dr. Faustus”. I try to conjure up his shade and absorb his spirit. All I come away with is the taste of beer. A short distance away, the church where Bach was choirmaster. My mind whirls with history.

 Switzerland: Somewhere in the Alps: Taking a short side trip on a local train from our Eurail route from Germany to Italy, we are in a carriage filled with young skiers. Rounding one mountain as we come from shade into full sunlight we unexpectedly come upon a sky filled with multi-colored hot air balloons, all sailing past our window at eye-level! Fantastic to see their tropical, parrot-like colors against the backdrop of snow-covered Alps!

China: Beijing (1999): A city of bicycles! (I hear that now they are rapidly being replaced by automobiles in China’s burgeoning economy. It was already a city of dense smog and pollution in 1999!). Beijing — A city of signs we cannot read!


Glimpses 7: Germany Italy Ireland

March 2, 2017

Originally intended as a small book, “Glimpses: In which a Casual Traveler Ruminates on Passing Scenes—1989-2011″, I should like to share it with my readers in a more informal manner as a series of Blogs.

Germany: Berlin: Passing under the Brandenburg arch (there was a time in Imperial Germany when only the royals were allowed to pass under this arch) and strolling along “Unter den Linden” (how many times had I read about this famous street!) and then a trolley ride with Heinrich to the Eastern side only one year after the wall came down. As we ride past the uniformly gray and drab city, I see tears in Heinrich’s eyes. I am sorry that we insisted on going to “take a look” (old Berlin Gallows humor: Airline Stewardess: “Welcome to Schönenfeld Airport! Please set your watches back forty years!”) The Russians deliberately retarded improvements—you could still see bullethole-ridden walls everywhere—to punish the Germans for WWII. How many sad memories this country has! At one point we got off the trolley and walked a few streets, stopped at a small store to buy sandwiches. The woman who waited on us was obviously pleased that we stopped in, delighted to discover that we had come from America. As she wrapped our lunch, she asked if we had a “messer” (a knife) to cut our sandwiches. We shook our head “no” and she turned back to her counter to pick one up and carefully wrap it before she tucked it into our bag. We protested, but she insisted that it would come in handy later. We were touched; to have so little yet to be so willing to give away one of her utensils to us. And a surprisingly pleasant memory as well!

Italy: Cinqueterra: Eating fresh calamari on the Ligurian shore. Delicious! Back to Portofino later that day, walking the ‘pedinale’ up on the hill behind the town.

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher

Ireland: On the way through the Burrens to find the Cliffs of Mohrer, we get lost and stop to ask directions from a lone man walking the road. He speaks for several minutes while giving hand directions. Neither of us understood a word he said. We continue and find the cliffs on our own. Gusts off the Atlantic so strong that we could not stand upright — the wind got under one of my gloves and peeled it right off my hand! I would have lost it forever if I hadn’t grabbed it quickly. Wildly beautiful!

Northern Germany: On a houseboat trip through Germany’s northern lock-connected lakes a few years after the Wall came down in Berlin, we (Jacky, Jörg, Cornelia and I) dock at a small town on one of the larger lakes. At a gift shop I see caps on sale that read: “Middletown Police Department”! When I asked the lady behind the counter about them she said she knew nothing about the little town in upstate New York (a town in a neighboring county from where we live) or how the hats got to her store.

Germany: Malchow: On this same houseboat trip, when we came to the town of Malchow, there was a one mark “toll” to enter the town’s small harbor, the coin taken by a man on shore with a pouch at the end of a long flexible pole…what might he have done if we had ignored the small pouch dangling before our eyes?


Glimpses 6: Czech Republic, Italy, Germany, Japan

February 23, 2017

Originally intended as a small book, “Glimpses: In which a Casual Traveler Ruminates on Passing Scenes—1989-2011″, I should like to share it with my readers in a more informal manner as a series of Blogs.

Czech Republic: Prague: We walk across Karl’s Bridge with Jacky and Jörg and go to a restaurant under the abutments on the far side. Like walking into a grotto. Who had sat in my seat in the past? I can’t recall the food. The next day I find an art shop and buy a print of the bridge. It now hangs in my dining room and each time I look at it I am reminded of the restaurant, the castle up on the hill, and the artists working along the bridge. 

Town of Colonnata, Carrera Italy

Town of Colonnata, Carrera Italy

Italy: Carrara: Cavi di marma loom, white marble glinting in the sun, the road narrow and twisty as we rise in our little rented car above San Pietro. At the end of the road, a small town — Colonnata —full of old men in the square, all with some visible disability (seemed like I was visiting some home/place for the disabled) ..found out they were all local, hurt in accidents from their mining work. A monument honoring the men and the marble stands at the edge of town. Intermittent dynamiting disturbs the quiet little town. How difficult must it have been without modern technology during Michelangelo’s time!

Germany: Bergisch Gladbach: A small gathering at the home of Heinrich and Christiane Jarczyk celebrating Heinz’s 70th birthday, several of the people “new” to us, apparently friends and neighbors who were outside his artistic circle. At one point during the evening, an elderly gentleman, ramrod strait and very formal, remarked to me in a clipped and precise Oxford-English, “You call him Heinz?” “Yes,” I said somewhat lightly. “That’s his name.” The old man — I could picture him with a monocle and fencing scar — pulled back his head and said emphatically, “I know Herr Doktor Jarczyk for almost twenty years — and I do not call him (a slight hesitation here) ‘Heinz’.” I shrugged. “Well, I’m American, you see. We do not stand on such ceremonies. We are friends and he calls me ‘Ray’, and I call him ‘Heinz’.” I bowed slightly to his rigid glare and moved to take part in another nearby conversation. He did not deign to speak to me again for the rest of the evening.

Japan: Narita International Airport: On our departure flight from Japan to Beijing I was watching out my window as we taxied to our runway and noted a line of workers — baggage handlers? I was not sure, but they were all dressed in a white, work uniform — facing our plane and, as we taxied by, bowing deeply at the waist. I’d never seen anything like that and, to this day, do not know if it was a customary farewell to all airlines or was there perhaps some political VIP up in first class. Whatever, it was an extraordinary sight and strangely comforting to me as we took our leave.


Glimpses 4: Switzerland, Germany, Austria

February 19, 2017

Originally intended as a small book, “Glimpses: In which a Casual Traveler Ruminates on Passing Scenes—1989-2011″, I should like to share it with my readers in a more informal manner as a series of Blogs. 

Switzerland: Brenner Pass: While traveling from Germany to Italy, we passed some ski slopes and, I as I looked over at the Lodge at the bottom of the mountain, I noted a hospital nearby!!! How fitting! No wonder I never took up the sport!!

Ulm Minster

Ulm Minster

Germany: Ulm: a church steeple (the tallest in Europe) made of stone. From a distance, it looks like the finest of lace! How had those stonemasons performed this miracle? What artists they were! Did they impress God with their handiwork as He did them? And what did Einstein — who was born here — think of it? Makes one marvel at so many artists of today who make sure they sign their most trivial of “artworks”.

Austria: Vienna: Visited, of course, the Hof, the Albertina (big disappointment!), the Winter Riding School, Schönbrunn and other “tourist spots”, but it was a coffee house a few steps away from the Hofburg that I most remember: spacious, high-ceilinged, tables with ample room for waiters in black and white to glide between them, newspapers (none of which I could read) hanging from bamboo poles. It was midday yet most tables were occupied by readers and journal writers…a smattering of tourists like myself. I somehow felt the souls of departed novelists, memoirists, revolutionaries, poets, students, pamphleteers, professors, anarchists, and other disillusioned persons hovering nearby, looking over my shoulder and wondering why I was merely gawking and not writing.

Italy: Rome: Piero (Pier Augusto Breccia) takes us to a restaurant outside city limits: Rustic, ancient, overhead wooden beams hung with farm/hunting implements. The menu: wild game. Expecting wild animals, I was still surprised to see “Bambi” featured on the menu.

Germany: Bergisch Gladbach: It was May and not a time we usually go to Europe, but I was invited for a book discussion/signing for my monograph on Heinz (Heinrich J. Jarczyk: Toward a Vision of Wholeness) at Cologne’s Amerika Haus so our Spring visit was a special one. What made it even more memorable for me, was a stroll down the street on which the Jarczyks lived, each side lined with flowering plum trees, all in full bloom and the sidewalks covered in pink petals. It was almost like walking down a “red carpet”, the little town welcoming us as “super stars” from the U.S. A very nice memory indeed. (Note: I met Heinrich J. Jarczyk during his exhibition at the German Embassy in NYC and later wrote about him in ART TIMES; sometime later, I also wrote two books about his life and work. We visited (and became long-time friends) with him and his wife, Christiane, many times in Germany).


Glimpses #2: Belgium, Germany

October 14, 2016

Originally intended as a small book, “Glimpses: In which a Casual Traveler Ruminates on Passing Scenes—1989-2011″, I should like to share it with my readers in a more informal manner as a series of Blogs.. The introduction and first two “Glimpses” are in the Blog uploaded on October 2, 2016

rjs_at_dais

Belgium: Leuven: Walking off nervousness before I have to deliver a paper at an international conference hosted by KADOC at the Catholic University, I pass through the remnants of a gate in a stone wall on the town’s outskirts. How many walled towns does Europe contain? Was this one raised by the Franks who founded Leuven? Or, as so many seem to be, by the Romans? Why do we still feel we need walls? We’ve only replaced stone with ideologies.

The Dom in Cologne seen from the train

The Dom in Cologne seen from the train

Germany: Paris, to Cologne, Germany: We arrive at the train station at night after leaving Isabelle and Bertrand. Our first view of Cologne: The Dom lit up in bluish lights: an unforgettable, fantastic wedding cake fashioned over the years out of durable stone! And to think that during WWII we nearly bombed it into rubble! (Note: Isabelle and Bertrand Azema, a couple from France that we met in NYS while Bertrand worked at IBM and whom we visited in France).

This is a detail of the Dionysus Mosaic found at the Roman-German Museum in Cologne Germany

This is a detail of the Dionysus Mosaic found at the Roman-German Museum in Cologne Germany

This is a detail of the Dionysus Mosaic found at the Roman-German Museum in Cologne Germany

This is a detail of the Dionysus Mosaic found at the Roman-German Museum in Cologne Germany

Germany: Cologne: I discovered that this city’s name comes from the word ‘colony’ and was the northernmost settlement of the Romans on the Rhine River. A curious note: during WWII when the U.S. bombed this city, most all of it (97%) was razed, though they tried not to destroy its beautiful Dom. After cleaning up after the war, the Germans discovered that the bombs had unearthed long-buried remnants of the Roman presence: an almost wholly preserved mosaic floor, glass artifacts, chariot wheels and parts, etc. All now preserved in a Roman Museum nearby the Dom. What lies beneath Rome? And then?


Glimpses #1: Germany, Italy

October 2, 2016

Originally intended as a small book, “Glimpses: In which a Casual Traveler Ruminates on Passing Scenes—1989-2011”, I should like to share it with my readers in a more informal manner as a series of Blogs.

Ranging across some distance around the globe including Europe, Asia —and closer to “home”—Canada and Barbados, in addition to these ‘hosting’ countries, I’d like to acknowledge the following friends and hosts (as well as countless clerks, guides, porters, fellow travelers—in brief, all those unnamed but not forgotten people in Japan, the Czech Republic, Belgium and Austria whose helpful presence often eased the hassles of travel): Heinrich J., Konstanze and Christian Jarczyk, Jacky Sparkowsky and Jorg Iwan, Gaby and Norman Wittmer (Germany); Piero Augustus Breccia (Italy); Chen Chi and Zu Min, Jason and Crystal ((college students)), Xue Jianhua and Shao Li Ke (China); Ann Mamok, Rick and Jo Canning (England); Isabel and Bertrand Azema (France); Laslo Fesus (Hungary); Barbara and Ronnie Gill (Barbados).

A note to the reader: I have not included dates in separate entries since most of these recollections have been gleaned months — if not years — after their occurrence, not a few popping into my mind during sleepless nights long after I had returned home from my travels.

Included will be some of my paintings & sketches as well as some photographs taken by Cornelia Seckel.

Gardens as seen from the trains in Germany

Gardens as seen from the trains in Germany

Germany: On a train from Cologne to Berlin: small, enclosed garden plots, many with tiny buildings (for the storage of tools?), most with a sitting area containing a bench, followed by open fields and larger farms. Such plots also flashed by my window in China and Japan, each time before and after the environs of large towns or cities. Do city/town dwellers come out here to these tiny, well-tended gardens on evenings and weekends? Does man ever fully divorce himself from the land? Stop putting his hands into the soil? What happens when he does?

Italy: Rome: Waiting at a bus-stop. Having just missed a bus on our way to Piero’s studio (where we were staying), we put down our packages to await the next. How long? We notice a church across the street. Why not? We enter and are astounded to discover that it contains Bernini’s “Ecstasy of St.Theresa”. No signs to give a clue! How many other hidden treasures have I blithely passed by on my way elsewhere? (Note: Pier ((Piero)) Augusto Breccia is an artist I met in NYC and whom I wrote about in ART TIMES).